Mar 24, 2009

Like a Glove

The linen suit has proven adequate in the following situations:

Riding a white stallion

Riding a mechanical bull

Walkin'

Drivin'

Mar 17, 2009

Kaycee Spice Emporium

Wholesale spice warehouse in Fort Cochin, Kerala.




Ginger drying.

Mar 16, 2009

Biryani


We didn't really get the fuss about biryani until we had this one in Kochi. It's known more as a northern/western Muslim specialty, but this family in Kerala has been making biryani for hundreds and hundreds of years. Apparently they are often flown to Dubai, Kuwait, etc... to make biryani at the weddings and feasts of the many Keralites who work in the Gulf.

42 Rs for chicken biryani, 47 Rs for mutton. At first it looks like there's no meat, but it's buried inside the mound of yellow rice. Not a huge piece of meat, but tender that it falls apart when you look at it.


We tried to figure out the ingredients. Definitely small basmati rice, cashews, raisins, pineapple, turmeric, mace, cloves, cardamom. Probably lots more.

You dab your finger in the small watery plate of lemon pickle for a piquant flavor contrast. The red onions are lightly pickled in vinegar.

We back the next day and also ordered fish curry and chicken chili fry. Both really good too.





CCT

I am coming to believe that Chili Cheese Toast (abbreviated to "CCT" on some menus) is one of the world's great snackfoods. It summons the "cheese-on-toast" of my youth, with the bonus addition of chili heat. It is made with a mild cheese slice laced with ringlets of fresh green chili, all melty on top of a unwholesome tranche of sweet white sandwich loaf.

This CCT interpretation from our hotel in Madurai was slightly unorthodox; more baked cheese spread than pure cheese. Somewhat like a thick cheesy bechamel laced with turmeric, and broiled until a thin crust formed on top of the gooey mustard-yellow viscosity of the filling. I approved.


This one from the Carlton Hotel in Kodaikanal was a more straight-laced rendition. Somewhat uninspired but still well snackable.


I'm thinking Chili Cheese Toast could be jazzed up into a more modern fingerfood as a crispy layer of parmesan or beemster or Thunder Oak gouda, on a superthin slice of crusty baguette, with green chili and/or some nice chili powder on top. Or maybe do away with the baguette all together, just go for a cheese basket with a little chili treat inside.

Lessons Learned #1

We have a little motto that helps us through our day to day learning process here in India - "live and learn". Here is a sample of some of our lessons learned to date:

On trains: Avoid mentioning your cell phone number or the name of your hotel. Otherwise, you might find yourself hiding out in your room from overbearing new "friends" who insist you join them for church and Sunday dinner.

On packing: Pack what you think you need, and then take half the clothes and twice the money. We read this on the internet somewhere and have come to believe that it is a wise piece of advice.

On transportation: Don't take treacherous mountain passes at night with drivers who think they are Michael Schumacher.

On health: Buy all your meds in India, not in Canada (especially when you don't have a health plan). There is an abundance of all types of pills, at 1/20th of the price, and you don't need any of those pesky prescriptions.

In general: If they ain't got the goods, don't give them any cash.

Mar 10, 2009

Value Meals


"Meals" (thalis) are a sort of workingman's lunch. Usually well under $2, served on an aluminum tray or banana leaf, and best eaten by hand. Can be "limited" (all you can eat rice) or "unlimited" (all you can eat everything). Contents vary day-to-day, eatery-to-eatery, and region-to-region. So far in South India meals seem to require the presence of rice, a papad, plain curd (yogurt), mango or lemon pickle, a dal, sambar, and rasam. Usually also a dry veg and veg in "gravy" and sometimes a sweet, eg. cardamom-saffron rice pudding. Every item is unfailingly delicious. Some thalis can reach semi-divine heights.

Toronto readers can get a decent one from Moti Mahal on Gerrard St. in Little India.


New Ananda Bhavan, Fort Kochi

Hotel Astoria, Kodaikanal

Lalit Mahal, Mysore

Indian Wine


Sampled a flight of Indian white wines at Malabar House. Detected notes of asparagus, capsicum, and fermented horse urine.

Enjoyed them all thoroughly in spite of their taste.

http://www.sulawines.com/
http://www.chateauindage.com/
http://grovervineyards.in/